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Island Peak Climbing

ISLAND PEAK or IMJA TSE
(6,160m/20,205ft.)



Area: Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area

          This is the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. The summit is interesting and attractive with a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse Glacier.The mountain itself is the extension of the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar seperated by a small col. The ridge rising to the south from this point leads to the summit of Island Peak. The extension of this ridge descending south-west is the part of the normal route of ascent and leads to the South Summit. Imja Tse not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm for climbing Island Peak.

South East Flank & South-West Ridge
         Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and
the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. It should not be forgotten that the place is more likely for avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. From the base camp, a well acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer establisheing a High-Camp which helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts south east around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier (5,280m). From the high camp, the left hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing. In recent times the snow slopes below the summit has developed some large crevasses making the final ascent to the top difficult.


North Ridge Route
        First ascent was in 1958 by Alf Gregory, Dick Cook and two Sherpas. North of the main summit the ridge continues to a col (5,700m). The route climbs the ridge from the col, which is reached by following the true right bank of the Imja Glacier and later the moraines on the right bank of the Lhotse Sar Glacier, before climbing north-west over snowy slopes to the col. On the first ascent, a camp was placed on the col. From the col, follow the ridge which is a magnificient snow arete, due south. This steepens for the final summit pyramid. This a long ridge that would be difficult under soft snow conditions and may under other contiditions have a marked cornice. The climb is a little more difficult than the normal route, and is graded alpine PD+.



Peak: Island (Imja Tse) Peak (6,160m/20,205ft)
Area: Khumbu Himal in the Everest Area, Nepal.
Route: South-West Ridge [ Route Map ]
Best Season: April-May & October-November

HIGHLIGHTS:
- Trek through the Sherpa Villages of Everest area.
- Trek up the Khumbu Glacier to Everest Base Camp (5364 m).
- Climb Kala Patthar (5550 m) for views of Everest and other peaks.
- Learn the finer points of Himalayan climbing from trained Instructor.
- Climb Island Peak (6,160 m) with our experienced Sherpa Guide.




Day 1 Fly to Lukla & Trek to Phakding [2652m]
Flying Distance: 45 min
Hiking Distance: 3 to 4 hours

A spectacular flight and hair raising landing on a steep mountain runway brings us to the start of our trek at the village of Lukla [2850m]. After short refresh break at Lukla, we head up the Dudh Kosi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 2 Trek to Namche [3450m]
Hiking Distance: 3 to 4 hours
From Phakding, we cross and re-cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set-up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment. We then ascend quite steeply to Namche and along the way, if the weather is clear, we can catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. Namche is the main trading village in the Khumbu and has a busy Saturday market - a meeting place for the Hindu traders from the lowlands and the Tibetan yak caravans that have crossed the glaciated Nangpa La. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 3 Rest day in Namche
 Namche is tucked away between two ridges amidst the giant peaks of the Khumbu and has an abundance of lodges, tea shops and souvenir shops as well as a magnificent outlook. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day, acclimatizing to the new altitude before heading off towards Tengboche. Options for acclimatization walks include a visit to Khunde hospital which was set-up by Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to the Everest view hotel above Namche for the sunset view of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest. There are also good views from the national park centre and museum just above the town. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 4 Trek to Tengboche [3867m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. Now we get our first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, we descend steeply to a bridge over the river at Phunki Tenga. The village is an excellent lunch spot, and here we can rest before making the steep climb to Tengboche. Although tiring, the hike up the zigzag path has numerous distractions, with rhododendron bushes, beautiful birds and superb mountain scenery. Tengboche is famous for its legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 5 Trek to Pheriche [4252m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
We descend steeply through a forest, cross the Imja Khola and climb steadily to the village of Pangboche. This is directly opposite Ama Dablam [6856m], and has exceptional views of the mountain, with the gompa, mani walls and scattered pine trees in the foreground. A further two hours walk brings us to Pheriche. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 6 Trek to Lobuche [4930m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
We continue up the wide valley beneath the impressive peaks of Cholatse and Tawache on the left. We then turn right and climb more steeply towards the foot of the Khumbu Glacier. The tea house at Duglha is a good spot to have lunch, before zigzagging up through the boulders of the glacier's terminal moraine. At the top of this climb there are many stone cairns, built as memorials to the many Sherpas who have died while climbing Mt Everest. The path then climbs gently along the glacier, to eventually reach the cluster of houses at Lobuche. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 7 Trek to Gorakshep [5184m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
To reach our next objective, Kala Pattar, the trail follows the Khumbu Glacier, and offers superb views of the surrounding mountains, especially where the path is forced to rise to cross a tributary glacier. We stop for lunch at our Gorakshep. Later in the afternoon, when the sunset colors begin to appear on Everest, we make our way to the top of one of the finest viewpoints in the Everest region, Kalapattar [5554m]. As the light begins to fade we stroll back to Gorakshep and have an early night in preparation for our trek to Everest Base Camp the following day. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 8 Trek to Everest base camp [5357m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
To reach Everest Base Camp, a very early start is required, as it takes several hours on a trail which weaves its way through ice pinnacles and past the crevasses of the Khumbu Glacier. On the return leg, we can take a higher route to get a spectacular view of the Khumbu icefall and the route to the South Col. We return to either Gorakshep. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 9 Trek to Dingboche [4350m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
We head back down today, through Duglha, to the summer village of Dingboche, where the houses are dotted about in the fields. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 10 Trek to Chukhung [4750m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
Today, we have an easy walk for about 2 hours, climbing up gradually to the small settlement of Chukhung. Along the way we have great views of Island Peak and the challenge that awaits us. Overnight on Camp.


Day 11 Trek to Island Peak Base camp [5150m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
Another easy day, the trail crosses the river and follows the valley for approx 3 hours, passing beneath the magnificent south face of Lhotse. Base camp is by the side of the Imja glacier, below steep grassy slopes which mark the start of the climb on Island Peak. Overnight on Camp.


Day 12 Trek to High camp
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
We ascend a little further to high camp where we will relax and make final preparations for our climb tomorrow. Overnight on Camp.


Day 13 Ascent of Island peak [6173m]
Hiking Distance: 4 to 5 hours
Crossing the gully above the camp the trail makes a climb for another hour to a narrow ridge, leading on to the glacier. Here it is time to rope-up and put on our crampons as the most interesting part of the climb begins with the glacier crossing. This is followed by the steep snow slope that leads onto the summit ridge. This ridge is wonderfully airy and on reaching the summit we have stunning close-up views of the south face of Lhotse looming over us whilst in the other direction, there are more dramatic mountain views. We descend along the same route, down to base camp Overnight on Camp.


Day 14 Trek to Pangboche [3950m]
Hiking Distance: 6 to 7 hours
After descending along the trail to Chukhung, we continue on to Dingboche for lunch. It is then another couple of hours to the lovely village of Pangboche. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 15 Trek to Namche [3450m]
Hiking Distance: 6 to 7 hours
Today we follow the river and, after crossing it, climb back up through birch and rhododendron forest to Tengboche. Kwangde, Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Kantega and Thamserku are just a few of the Himalayan giants to be seen. From Tengboche we descend to the bridge over the Dudh Kosi at Phunki Tenga, where there are water driven prayer wheels, before making our way back to Namche. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 16 Trek to Lukla [2800m]
Hiking Distance: 5 to 6 hours
Our final day's trekking follows the Dudh Kosi back down to Lukla. This last evening in the mountains is the ideal opportunity for a farewell party with the Sherpa guides and porters, where we can sample some chang, try Sherpa dancing and look back on a memorable trekking experience. Overnight on Lodge.


Day 17 Fly to Kathmandu
Flying Distance: 45 mins

We pack up early and head for the airstrip for the flight back to Kathmandu

 

INCLUDED:
Trekking permits, National Park Entrance and climbing fee.
Accommodation in lodges on the trek portion.
Tent and camping arrangements for climbing portion.
Trek guide, porter/s. All 3 meals a day.
Service of Instructor and Sherpa Guide for Island Peak climbing.
Climbing equipment: ice axe, helmet, harness, main rope, pitons, snow bars, etc.
Guide and porter insurance.

NOT INCLUDED:
Sleeping bags (can be hired in Kathmandu),
Personal equipment: boots, crampons, clothing, head lamp, backpack, etc.
Bottled/alcoholic drinks, tips and personal expenses,
Client insurance of any kind.

Contact us for further information: Inquiry/Booking Form
Email:
info@beautynepaladventure.com






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